| Principal
definition
The
critical depth H cmw
bellow the SWL, computed for any continuous sea area, define an integral
momentum carrying surface-locus we will hereafter call the "centers of
critical moments". This surface is a horizontal plane at a fixed and defined
depth for seas of large depth, mostly depending on wavelength L. Hence,
the characteristic ratio Hcmw /(L/4) increases for decreasing depth. This
means that the Center of Critical Moment depth at a given sea location
(it is the point at depth Hcmw below the water surface) approaches the
seabed as the depth of the sea decreases, or as we approach the seashore,
as depicted in sketch (1). Moreover, the elliptical orbital motion
of particles in the Hcmw area, is rapidly increasing its x-axis component
whilst decreasing the y-axis one, as to eventually break into linear motion
(2). As is described below, by taking advantage of these properties,
we can collect a large part of the kinetic and potential energy (the latter
due to the height of the water above the Sea Water Line) in a properly
designed converter -in this case the SEKE device. If the sea bed
in front of the above vertical wall is given a suitable gradual -i.e. exponential-
modification, then the motion of the running wave during its ascending
phase follows the sea bed surface, carrying with it most of its total energy
(1). This energy, at the end of the phase of ascent becomes partly potential,
i.e. "water level". The height to which the wave rises before its surface
line "breaks", depends on the energy that its water mass includes, which
in turn is proportional to the square of the wave height.
As
is expected, once the kinetic energy of the wave turns into potential
(water level), its velocity becomes zero and the phase of descent
begins. Meanwhile, the motion of the Centers of Critical Momentums has
followed the path of the running waves, whilst the paths of
the sea particles contained inside the volume V(Hcmw), formed
a group motion, which we will hereafter call the "Critical Momentum Wedge
- CMW ". As shown in (1), the formation of CMW comes gradually
closer to the sea bed, whereas its direction between point A (initial)
and point E changes by 90 o
(i.e. the vertical wave velocity becomes progressively higher than the
horizontal one). The curves A through E are the loci of
the centers of the circular -or elliptical- motions of the sea particles
at various positions during the motion of the running wave. As a theoretical
assumption according to the CMW principle, at some point of this orbital
progression and after the upper wave motion has ceized, the resultant action
of three composite forces, that is, the one due to the horizontal wave
velocity (celerity) Fwv , the
hydrostatic pressure Fwh and
the reaction normal to and upward from the sea bed F
sb, as depicted in (2), will cause the current orbit
to
collapse and therefore provide a rapid kinetic energy burst acting as a
linear hydraulic ram. After the completion of this phase, the phenomenon
repeats itself with a period equal to the period corresponding to the specific
wavelength.It transpires from the hitherto presentation that it is possible,
through a properly shaped sea floor or through an artificial immersed surface,
to direct the Critical Momentum Wedge inside a special device that will
receive the energy of the sea particles participating in the motion. Such
a suitable device -called SEKE- along with the preliminary kinematic analysis
for its operation, will be described within following chapters of this
report. A primary mathematical approach to the CMW behavior is provided
in document (3). A schematic simulation of the CMW dynamics is rendered
in (4)
Experimental
Results
As
this point we should recapitulate on the governing principles of the C.M.W.
theory. Hence, the water particle orbits (motion orbits) in the presence
of progressive waves are either circles or ellipses, the horizontal diameters
of which decrease exponentially with depth. According to the theory, there
is a region of momentum between the water surface and the depth at which
the particle orbits become zero, which represents the resultant of all
other momentums upwards and downwards of that region. In other words,
if we average the momentums of all the particle motion -except for those
very close to the surface- we would obtain a result equal to the momentum
of C.M.W.
A
significant experimental indication of the C.M.W. existence, is provided
by the experimental works of Prof.W.Dursthoff (Hanover Univ.). According
to the published proceedings (NEL publication "1993 EUROPIAN WAVE ENERGY
SYMPOSIUM") Prof. Dursthoff tests were performed on large-scale, quasi-prototype
model sites (Hanover Large Wave Flume), and actual digital recordings
were obtained on the incident impact forces normal to a breakwater, as
induced by four representative cases of variable wavelength waves. A graphical
representation of the respective results is provided by DIAGRAMS "LOADING
CASE 1 to 4", in section (5).
As
demonstrated, longer wavelengths apply as developing from "LOADING
CASE 1 to CASE 4" and different "wave-breaking" effects are subsequently
obtained. A significantly longer wave length is apparent in CASE 4 by -comparison
to the previous cases-and the respective Horizontal Velocity vector VH
is significantly greater than in the previous cases. As expected, the opposite
holds for the Vertical Velocity vector Vv, which is now significantly lesser
than in the previous cases. Clearly demonstrated in case 4, is the occurrence
of two well-defined humps. This indicates the existence of two momentum
carriers in the time domain separated by a magnitude of fragments of a
second, and a distance in the order of a few meters.
Back
to diagram -- "LOADING CASE 4', the first hump appeared due to the
momentum carried by the wave front. The second hump is apparently due to
the C.M.W. momentum. A reasonable question appears now, as to the reasons
that clearly defined second humps do not appear on the other "loading diagrams".
A simplified conclusion is that the longer the wavelength is, the better
the C.M.W. effect becomes apparent. Dursthoff's tests were performed in
a wedge-shaped formatted sea-bed. When a progressive wave is confronted
with a formatted sea-bed, a gradual deformation of the particle orbits
will also commence. Consequently for longer wave lengths the C.M.W. would
delay accordingly, with respect to the wave front. Therefore in short wave
front from the action of C.M.W. may well be incomplete and less powerful.
On the contrary, in long wavelengths this distinction becomes clear. Hence,
the diagrams corresponding to "Loading cases 1-3" do not clearly depict
the secondary loading effects due to the C.M.W., since it is so close to
the surface that its loading action occurs almost simultaneously to the
wave front action.
An
appropriately formatted sea-bed, will not only accomodate a wide number
of wavelenghts, but will also allow a distinct and amplified C.M.W. effect,
as is presented in schematic (6)
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(1)
CMW envelope development over a modified sea bed
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Schematic
presentation -
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(2)
Water particles orbit deflection on modified sea bed
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Schematic
presentation -
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(3) CMW kinematics intoduction
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Basic
theoretical model -
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(4)
CMW kinematics simulation
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Schematic
presentation -
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1
2

3
4

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(5)
CMW dynamics behavior
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Experimental
tests -
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(6)
CMW fully developed dynamics behavior
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Schematic
presentation -
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